The term “ideal city” was coined during the Renaissance, when architects were obsessed with the goal of rebuilding medieval cities and building new ones that were comfortable for people. There were many attempts, but only Pienza managed to get closer to the ideal. All roads in the city lead to the central square to the cathedral. You can walk around the city in an hour, but on the other hand, walking along the street of love, the street of kisses and taking pictures near each staircase decorated with flowers. An ideal city is the perfect cheese!
In reality, the city of Pienza cannot be called alive: after lunch, when the flow of tourists subsides, you will find empty houses. In which of them the traders themselves are settled only during the summer earnings. But before that, let's walk along the sunny streets, following the cheesy spirit - it's everywhere here.
Aged pecorino is displayed on the shelves at the entrance to the store. Fresh pecorino, by contrast, is kept in the refrigerator. And also pecorino is red, black, in grape leaves, with pepper, truffle, for 40 euros and for 20. Which one to choose? Let's go in order.
Now, select the cheese aging degree. Remember three simple Italian words: Fresco, Semi-stagionato, Stagionato and also Sotto vuoto (vacuum packing).
Fresco
The youngest pecorino. It is no more than 30 days old and cooks without additives. Has the softest consistency and creamy milky flavor. Unfortunately, this cheese cannot be exported from the country and can only be tasted there. This is a cheese "for every day": it is served with breakfast, fruit, and put on bread.
Semi-stagionato
Semi-matured cheese with "fast life" for about 2 months. The most understandable ─ less milky taste, sweetish-spicy. It can be transported, but in the cold. Also suitable for everyday meals. It is served with cold cuts, for breakfast or with wine, and also served grated with pasta and sauces. Costs from 8 to 15 euros per kilogram.
Stagionato
They are kept in the ground for 2 to 4 months. Yes, that's right ─ in a hole in the ground. The older the cheese, the firmer its texture. The taste varies: some varieties are very similar to the real Parmigiano Reggiano, and some, alas, resemble soap. The aroma is strong and expressive, with the smell of sheep's milk (and the sheep themselves).
Natural flavors are added to the cheese aging. At the time of ripening, the cheese is wrapped in different “clothes”: truffle chips, grape leaves, flakes of red and black pepper, sawdust or needles. Each addition and shell changes the flavor and aroma of the cheese. Aged pecorino costs between 18 and 25 euros. You can find more expensive, but most likely this price will be greatly exaggerated for gullible tourists.
In general, the list of world famous Italian cheeses is small: ricotta, mozzarella, gorgonzola, parmesan - that's all. Pecorino is not included in it, since it is considered simpler and more unpretentious than its counterparts. However, in Tuscany, Pecorino cheese is a source of pride. At different times, pecorino was sometimes called a substitute for parmesan, or the best Tuscan cheese.
And it is on the basis of pecorino that the classic pesto sauce is prepared.
You can try Pecorino di Pienz all over Tuscany. And we will share a secret place: keep on your way to the FattoriPianporcino farm, in the vicinity of Pienza, where the owner will kindly give you a guided tour and tasting without asking for anything in return. On the farm, you can buy high-quality and delicious Pecorino cheese much cheaper than in tourist places. Have cash ready - cards are not accepted here. And now, when you have already chosen a worthy piece, lovingly clutching it to your chest, brought home - what next? How to store noble cheese?
Pecorino is afraid of dryness, excessive ventilation, and temperature extremes. The piece should be wrapped in parchment paper, while the hard part - the crust - should remain open so that the cheese can "breathe". Then you need to put the cheese in a suitable container and put it in the refrigerator. Medium-aged cheese can be stored for up to a month.
For hard cheese, vacuum packaging is suitable - it significantly extends the shelf life. Without opening the package, you can store it for up to 4 months. After opening, the shelf life is of course reduced.
Pecorino is very rare on Russian counters. But a piece of aged cheese brought from Pienza will remind you of a happy trip on long evenings.
Expert:
Elena Chazova
Photo: Getty Images, press archives
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