Jean-Luc Moll was born into a family of French restaurateurs in Bordeaux, the world's wine capital. When he turned 16, he realized that being a chef was his calling. Since then, he has worked in three Michelin-starred restaurants, as well as collaborated with such masters of world haute cuisine as Alain Ducasse and Jean-Christophe Ansane-Alex. Today Jean-Luc Moll runs the hostellerie des Criquets, a family-run hotel and restaurant in his hometown, and has his own independent culinary school. Since 2017, dishes of his authorship can also be tasted in the Russian capital - especially for Brasserie MOST, the famous French chef has created a special menu, which is based on both traditional dishes from the regions of France and author's twists on world hits.
MarieClaire: What do you think is the fundamental difference between Russian seasonal cuisine and French?
Jean-Luc Moll: In this case, the answer lies in the question itself. Russia and France are not neighboring countries, they are located in different climatic zones. In our country, we always have a large selection of products, and seasonality does not greatly affect its diversity.
What surprises you the most about Russian clients?
I am surprised at Russian guests - but only in a good way - their openness to something new: another culture, foreign cuisine. They want to know the history of the origin of this or that dish, they are interested. This attitude is always very pleasant.
Who is easier to feed - Russian or French?
It seems to me that it is more pleasant to feed a Russian guest, who, as I said, is open and less critical of the dish if it is of good quality. The Frenchman is more likely to be more critical. In France, gastronomic culture is very important. Therefore, if you decide to cook a classic French dish, and even more so in its home region, then be sure to wait for comparisons with those who have already prepared it.
Which of the French dishes is the most difficult to "get" a Russian to eat?
I think a young pigeon. Perhaps the Russians consider it exclusively an urban bird that flies in an unknown place and eats in an incomprehensible way. In France, we do not eat urban pigeons, but young ones, which are specially bred for gastronomic purposes. They do not fly much, and they have very tender meat.
Is your restaurant menu in France very different from that of Brasserie MOST in Moscow?
Yes of course. My restaurant menu and the Brasserie MOST menu are very different. In France, we have the opportunity to clearly follow the seasonality in gastronomy, having a large selection of products. In Brasserie I often try to recreate some regional dishes, or those that are dear to me, or even those that I once cooked, and I remember them. For example, to the latter I can include "foie gras set" or "fried escalope foie gras with oyster tartare."
When entering such items on the menu, I try to find a balance in serving and flavor combinations, not forgetting where I cook and for whom. At the same time, it is important for me to remain true to my cuisine.
If you had a choice of where to dine, which restaurant would you order yourself?
I would choose Gilles Goujon's Auberge du Vieux Puits, which is located in Fonjoncuse in southeastern France, close to the Spanish border.
Are diet and chef jobs compatible? Have you ever been on a diet?
Of course. Today, in many parts of the world (and in France too) there is a tendency when they try to cook lighter food, use less fat. They focus mainly on herbal ingredients, delicious broths, and they tend to make sauces without adding flour exclusively by boiling. There are also chefs who follow the concept of light, vegetarian or vegan food without allergens. So the job of a chef and diet are quite compatible.
I myself sometimes go on diets if I need to lose some weight or improve my health. Focusing on your goal, it makes sense to focus on some specific products. For example, if you want to cleanse the liver, then you should give preference to black radish, beets and artichokes. Or eat less meat and more fish, cut back on fat, and add more broth to your diet.
By the way, in my kitchen you can often find aromatic broths that allow you to preserve all the taste qualities of a dish and make it light and tasty.
Where is it more difficult to "compose" new dishes - in Russia or in France?
Easier in France. Again, this is due to the wide selection of seasonal products and the proximity of manufacturers. But I like coming up with new dishes in Russia as well. In a sense, the work here is driven by boundaries and constraints. But any limitations make you think, fantasize and experiment more. In this case, creativity, originality and technique are important. So both countries suit me.
What are your three favorite French dishes?
Royal hare, veal blankett and Grenobol-style sole fillets.
And from Russian?
Cheesecakes, dumplings and borsch.
Are there foods or meals that you will never eat?
It seems to me that there are no foods or dishes that I would not try - I am always curious. Although in some countries there are dishes that use products that we are not used to, such as live insects. But, most likely, I would try them too.
What's the funniest nonsense you've ever heard about French cuisine?
Probably what the French call "eaters" of frogs and snails - as if we eat them every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner. You will be surprised, but it is not so. It is foolish to speak out about French cuisine, relying only on this tradition of ours.
In that case, what is the most ridiculous myth you know about Russian cuisine?
The biggest nonsense that I have heard is that bears are walking in the very center of Moscow and they are being shot to be eaten later.
You have created a dessert for Brasserie MOST, inspired by the limited line of Givenchy Gloss Interdit Vinyl Lip Gloss. How did the idea take shape? How did you find the flavor for each mini cake?
The first step was to carefully examine the product. Initially, there was an idea to recreate the tubes of gloss with a filler - that is, to work out the color, shape, texture, appearance and taste. But these attempts were not convincing - there was no harmony in the dessert. I really wanted to convey exactly the shine and rich color. So the idea came to create mini-cakes in the form of hemispheres, which were able to show the same shine and taste, which, by the way, was as close as possible to the aromatic component of each Gloss Interdit Vinyl cosmetic product.
Do you cook at home?
Yes of course.
What is your favorite dish to cook at home?
My favorite homemade dish is an oven-stewed lamb scoop with new jacket potatoes cooked with garlic, thyme, rosemary, and enough butter. It turns out amazingly delicious!
Photo: archives of press services
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