Dermatologists confidently debunk marketing myths. They testify: in fact, nothing supernatural happens to the skin in summer. The only factor strictly specific for the hot season is ultraviolet light (we have already talked about reliable protection against all types of UV radiation), while dehydration is a year-round problem. It is simply called by its name in summer, and for some reason in winter it is called "dryness". At the same time, the summer moisture deficit is still specific. Indoor air conditioners dry out the skin just as much as central heating radiators in winter, but in addition to this, the heat outside “melts” more moisture from it. In summer, the level of fluid in the deep layers drops rapidly, and if water reserves are not regularly replenished, the result will not be long in coming: the tone and turgor of the tissues decrease,and the skin looks like a crumpled rag.
How to tell if your skin is dehydrated?
The most accurate answer is given by corneometry - measuring the amount of moisture using a special electrode. This method investigates the electrical conductivity and electrical resistance of the epidermis: the higher the conductivity, the more moisture it contains. Let's not delve into the dermatological jungle, let's just say that the visual method for determining the dehydration of the skin also works well.
There are several degrees of skin moisture: moist, weak, medium and highly moist (extreme manifestation is maceration - swelling of the epidermis and wrinkling of the skin, which can be observed after taking a bath).
Dehydration can manifest itself in different ways depending on the type of skin. In people with dry skin, dryness becomes even more intense, peeling and irritation appear, but in those with an oily type, the shine increases (in "dry" conditions, the skin acts on the principle of compensation - it releases more sebum, trying to "seal" the remaining moisture in the epidermis). However, the most typical symptom - tightness and a feeling of dryness after contact with water - is noted by everyone. As well as the fact that obvious discomfort causes a desire to quickly apply a nourishing cream to the skin. Often, dehydrated skin has a dull grayish color, among other things.
Dehydration also helps to identify the following test: if you collect the skin in a fold ─ for example, “lift” the cheekbone area with your finger ─ or smile broadly, then in the periorbital region there appears a fine fold, resembling bruising, and the epidermis becomes like crumpled baking paper. These small wrinkles are easy to distinguish from the manifestations of age: they are slightly smoothed out immediately after applying the moisturizer.
What kind of care does this skin need?
In the summer, it makes sense to sort out the cosmetic bag: remove dense treatments (the face under them "melts", and sebum mixed with sweat and dust rather quickly clogs pores enlarged from the "greenhouse effect") and add a moisturizing cream or gel that is light in texture. A moisturizing mask will fit well into the complex, especially with a gel texture and a cooling effect. In your purse, car, on your desktop or next to the TV (and ideally in all the indicated locations), a can of thermal water will not be superfluous: it will not restore the loss of moisture globally, but will help maintain the mineral and water balance of the skin. Spray your face every time the "thermal" catches your eye - it certainly won't be worse.
How to choose a moisturizer
The effectiveness of the product depends on the active ingredients. A cream containing only glycerin and chamomile extract cannot be called moisturizing, strictly speaking. Let's figure out why. Hydrofixers - substances that retain moisture in the intercellular space - are divided into four types, but in creams, especially for the face, manufacturers most often add epidermal barrier restorers and true "moisturizers", components of the natural moisturizing factor NMF.
The former include oils and other components that form the thinnest breathable film on the skin. It solders cracks and damage to the epidermis, which prevents the evaporation of moisture (while the skin breathes freely), but it does not give a sharp "increase" in moisture. The second are substances with hydrophilic properties (everyone's favorite hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, aloe extract, seaweed, oat, chamomile, amino acids, minerals, algae extracts - for example, carrageenan or laminarin), i.e. the ability to attract water to itself and keep it in the epidermis. This group, of course, is a much more effective "moisturizer", but even a record-breaking hydrofixer will not help with damaged epidermis - moisture will simply "flow away" into nowhere. Therefore, moisturizers usually include a full complex: for example, hyaluronic acid,and oils (or, at worst, glycerin).
After tanning, the skin needs increased hydration
If you actively sunbathe, but do not moisturize the skin, there is a risk of hyperkeratosis ─ a specific condition of the epidermis, when it is covered with a thick layer of dead cells to protect it from ultraviolet radiation, literally "sucking" precious drops. Dehydrated skin with a thickened stratum corneum is like sandpaper - both in appearance and in touch. By the way, it is due to hyperkeratosis that chocolate tan over time acquires a dirty tint (especially if the owner takes care of it, thoroughly cleanses the skin every other time and does not use scrubs) and by the end of summer it turns into a dark gray-brown rough crust, ironically called by the people "chicken- grill".
After sun care for face
Balm for the restoration of skin cells with sunburn Capital Ideal Soleil, Vichy
Returning from vacation, with a baggage of positive emotions, we often forget, for joy, about the basic rules of care. There are several axioms to restore the skin's normal moisture level after sunbathing. After rest, use slightly softer scrubs so as not to disturb the already damaged skin barrier (deep skin scrubbing can be done every 7-14 days). With a strong degree of dehydration of the skin, take a course of summer chemical peels based on lactic acid - they will quickly moisturize the epidermis, remove the rough skin layer, and have a slight lightening effect. After vacation, moisturizers should be included in daily care for at least a month. With intensive recovery, it is optimal to use them twice a day (in the morning it is better to choose gels or light emulsions, leaving the texture denser for the evening). Further. focusing on the condition of the skin, such care can be used less actively, for example, switch to a one-time application - before bedtime.
Skin care after sun for face and / or body
After-sun regenerating milk for face and body, Babor
There are no special rules for applying after sun products, except that all moisturizing products must be applied to cleansed skin.
For areas with tighter skin (elbows, feet), use special products to soften and moisturize the skin. In case of photodamage ─ sunburn ─ connect antioxidant complexes to them (based on vitamins C, E, F, A, resveratrol, ferulic acid).
How do you know if care is working?
The effectiveness of the cream should be evaluated gradually. From the first try, only one thing can be noted: a feeling of comfort, when the skin does not feel unpleasant tightness, and the "lines of dehydration" are mutely smoothed out. After moisturizing, the skin should remain slightly damp, but not sticky or greasy.
If the cream suddenly rolls off after being applied to the skin, most likely its portion was too generous.
The complex effect can be assessed only after 2-3 weeks, when the upper layers of the epidermis are renewed: fine wrinkling gradually disappears, the skin becomes softer and smoother to the touch, and discomfort after washing, showering or bathing occurs less and less.
Photo: Getty Images, press archives
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