Sun Protection: Common Mistakes (and How To Fix Them)

In hot issues of relations with ultraviolet light, everyone has long considered themselves experts: they know which product to buy, why and how to use it. Having set out to check if this is really so, the editorial staff of Marie Claire formulated several life postulates about how we usually act when it comes to SPF funds, and asked a qualified expert to answer whether we are doing everything right. Check yourself!

1. When choosing sunscreen cosmetics, we look for numbers on the packaging

Wrong. First of all, you need to look for letters

And not just letters, but certain letters. The abbreviation SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor, i.e. "Sun protection factor". Doctors call the SPF factor the ratio of the minimum erythemal dose (i.e., the dose of ultraviolet radiation, followed by redness of the skin) of a skin area with a sunscreen applied to it to the minimum erythema zone of an unprotected area 24 hours after exposure. If we translate this into simple language, it turns out that SPF is the ability of a product to protect the skin from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation and make staying in the open sun as safe as possible. This is where the most important thing lies: ultraviolet light is different.

There are three types of ultraviolet rays: A, B and C (UVA, UVB and UVC respectively). We will not talk about the rays of the C spectrum: they are the strongest and most dangerous, but they do not pose a threat, because they do not reach the Earth's surface - they are absorbed by the ozone layer. Sun rays spectrum B- this is the ultraviolet, thanks to which we sunbathe (if its doses are reasonable) or burn (when mindlessly "fry" in the sun for a long time). UVB rays penetrate into the skin only to the depth of the upper layer of the skin ─ the epidermis, but with regular abuse of sunbathing they provoke photoaging and can cause cancer. The good news is that the rays of spectrum B are most active only in the spring-summer period (however, in the most inconvenient hours - daytime, from 11 to 16). Spectrum A rays are much more insidious… They “work” equally well in any season and time of day, they are not lingering either by clouds in the sky, or by automobile or window glasses, or even by clothes. UVA rays are more dangerous than UVB rays, because they can penetrate deep into the dermis, damaging the structure and DNA of cells. In the first case, it is fraught with premature aging and wrinkles (for example, when elastin and collagen fibers change under the harmful effects of radiation) and hyperpigmentation, in the second - the development of skin cancer.

An SPF product will protect your skin from sunburn, but if it doesn't contain UVA filters, it won't provide maximum sun protection.

The sun protection factor (SPF) neutralizes the B rays (those that cause sunburn), but does not block the A rays. Ideally, sunscreen should provide protection from both types of UV radiation, so you need to look for a tube that will definitely letters UV and UVB, not just SPF (whichever value is large).

The letters UV in a circle indicate that the UV and UVB filters in the product are in a 1: 3 ratio. Ideally, it should be 1: 1.

If UVB protection is "indexed" by SPF, then the UVA protection indexes are the following letters: PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening), P (Protection Grade of UVA) and IPD (Immediate Pigment Darkening). All of them are used to denote the protection of the skin from ultraviolet spectrum A. In different countries, different indices are used, and in our country, when translating the composition of the product, they are often forgotten about. Therefore, if it was not possible to find these abbreviations on the jar, pay attention to the letters UV, even without specifics, on it. If indices are found, it is easy to "read" them - the larger the value, the better.

2. We trust only the most "powerful" protection factor - 50+ and above

Wrong. We select SPF depending on the circumstances and individual characteristics

UVA filters in a sunscreen are very important, but SPF as the main protection against sunburn should not be forgotten. Sun protection factors in the composition of the product differ in levels of protection: up to 10-15 units - basic, 15-25 - medium and 30-50 - high. At the same time, you need to understand that even SPF 100 will not provide absolute protection from the sun, and a jar with "weaving", if any, will not differ much from the "fifty".

SPF 10 provides 90% protection against UVB rays, SPF 20 - 95%, SPF 30 - 97%, and SPF 50 - 98% and SPF 100 - 99%.

Sunscreen milk for face and body Waterlover Sun Milk SPF 30, Biotherm

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Therefore, when choosing an SPF sunscreen, consider:

1. Skin phototype (an indicator characterizing its sensitivity to ultraviolet light - the lighter the skin, the higher the SPF of the protective agent should be);

2. Geography, directly affecting the intensity of the sun (the closer the place is to the equator, the higher the risk of getting sunburn there and the higher the protective factor is required);

3. Season of the year and day (in spring and summer, SPF is required higher than in winter and summer, and in the daytime - from 10 to 16 - UVB rays are the most active);

4. Weather conditions (clear skies require more reliable protection than cloudy ones).

3. We buy separate sunscreens for ourselves and for children

Correctly. "Children's" and "adult" sun creams differ in different types of filters

Baby's skin has its own physiological characteristics (lighter, thinner and more delicate), therefore all children's sunscreens are tested under the supervision of pediatricians. But it's not only that. All UV filters - substances that neutralize the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation - are divided into physical and chemical. The first ones are not absorbed by the skin, but form a dense film on the surface (it can be compared to a kind of shield or screen), which reflects the sun's rays. The latter, when applied, penetrate into the upper layers of the epidermis and work directly there: they absorb ultraviolet radiation, while emitting heat (the temperature of the skin rises in this case), but block its further penetration into the depth of the dermis. In fact, a chemical reaction occurs on the surface of the skin (hence the name of the filters) - it is safe for the body as a whole,but effective. Both physical and chemical filters protect the skin from either UVA rays, UVB rays, or both. But if physical filters are as “natural” and non-toxic as possible, then chemical filters may well provoke allergies. This is unpleasant, but not critical for adults and unacceptable for children. Children's sunscreen cosmetics should only contain physical UV filters!

Physical filters are, for example, zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. When it comes to chemical products, the following names can be included in the product: octocrylene, oxybenzone, benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone, benzophenone-3), avobenzone (avobenzone), octyl salicylate (octyl salicylate), mexoryl (Mexoryl SX and XL); tinosorb (Tinosorb S and M), padimate O, cinnamate, sulisobenzone.

Thus, you can use children's sunscreens for an adult, but you should not act on the opposite principle. Finally, here are a couple more differences that may affect your choice. Sunscreens with physical filters, due to the density, opacity and "non-absorbency" of the composition, can leave visible marks on the skin, and here a conflict arises between the control of application of the product (it is convenient to apply without missing anything - when it comes to children) and aesthetics (whitish stripes do not look too pretty on parents). Finally, physical filters take effect instantly, while chemical filters take time to react with the skin and get ready for "work" (which is why most sunscreens need to be applied 20-30 minutes before sun exposure).

Sunscreen milk with a very high degree of protection SPF 50+ (25 PPD), Mustel

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4. We regularly update the "protection"

Correctly. Sun filters "wear out"

Chemical filters literally melt in the sun over time, because each molecule of the composition of the protective cream "dies" after absorbing a portion of ultraviolet radiation. Physical filters, in addition to being non-water resistant, are erased by close physical or mechanical contact (wiped off with a towel - "pulled" the UV screen from the skin and made it vulnerable). That is why, while in the open sun, you need to constantly monitor the renewal of the sun protection layer: the hotter the sun and the shorter the intervals between entry into the water, the more often you reapply the product.

5. We use sunscreens for exposed areas of the body

Wrong. You need to "defend yourself" entirely

Since ultraviolet light can penetrate even through T-shirts and pants (we mean all the same ill-fated UVA rays), then in conditions of active sun ─ or "increased insolation", as dermatologists like to say ─ for example, in southern resorts, it is advisable not to apply sunscreen only on the face and arms and legs uncovered by clothing, but also on the whole body. The rule allows exceptions if the clothes already have UV protection - these are, as a rule, children's clothes for outdoor activities (most often swimwear and T-shirts), sports equipment (for example, rash guards for surfers, divers, cyclists, etc.), headwear headwear.

6. We run for cosmetics marked with SPF on the eve of vacation

Wrong. Daily care products and "decorative" must also have a sun protection factor

Sunscreens can be divided into two types: for protection against long-term and short-term UV radiation. The former have an SPF of at least 30, protection from two types of ultraviolet radiation, and water resistance. This group includes "beach" and "sports" sunscreens (usually have yellow-orange packaging), protective sticks with physical filters (zinc oxides, titanium oxides), children's cosmetics. We often forget about the second, and in vain. Day creams, eye creams, foundations and powders, lip balms, decorative cosmetics, despite occasional contact with the sun (for example, on weekdays), should also provide protection against UV radiation. The optimal value of the "daily" SPF for urban conditions is 15.

UltrFacial Cream SPF 30

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Take note: SPF should be used at the final stage of makeup. Creams applied on top of it destroy the protective barrier and neutralize the sunscreen effect. So, if you use both sunscreen and day face cream, apply them in the following order ─ first day care, then 10-15 minutes later ─ SPF cream. At the same time, the day cream must be completely absorbed so as not to react with chemical filters, as its components, especially oils, "dilute" SPF and reduce protection.

7. We don’t trust “multicells”

Wrong. "Hybrids" will bring the skin condition closer to the ideal without harm to health

The frantic pace of modern life, as well as the fashionable desire to improve its "quality" has increased the demand for comprehensive care. There is no need to choose between beauty or protection: multifunctional creams and gels solve several problems at once. They provide full protection from the sun ─ subject to all the rules and parameters for choosing the product mentioned above (which means they prevent the appearance of age spots and wrinkles), moisturize, even out the texture of the skin, correct its tone and matte, coping with oily sheen.

Sunscreen for face Beautifying Protective Creme Sublime Glow SPF 30 with the effect of a pearlescent shining coating, Dior