There is something special about a perfume born on the fragments of a great history. When a fragrance is not a newborn brainchild of someone's modern genius, but a real olfactory echo of the past decades, if not centuries. When, inhaling it, you hear not only its polyphonic notes, but also mentally transfer yourself to the era, of which it was an integral part.
The English Queen Elizabeth II and the Russian Empress Alexandra Feodorovna were related not only by close kinship (Elizabeth's great-grandfather, King Edward VII, and Alexandra's mother are brothers and sisters, children of Queen Victoria). Their shared passion for flowers and “rosy scents” was generously fueled by the creations of the two perfume houses that shared the favor of the Royal Court of Great Britain. The first one is to celebrate its 200th anniversary in 2019, and the second one will soon turn 150. For perfume companies, the age is impressive. Even more impressive are their archives, from which perfumers today draw inspiration, recreating the bestsellers of past centuries, adjusted for modern technology. Two literally royal fragrances have just received their rebirth. More about them.
Atkinsons white rose de alix
James Atkinson was named Official Perfumer of the Royal Court of England in 1826 (27 years after the creation of his first fragrance). So, it is not surprising that Queen Victoria's own granddaughter, Princess Alice, had a special affection for this brand and continued to acquire Atkinsons perfume even after she moved to St. Petersburg and married the future Tsar Nicholas II.
It is known for certain that in the last years of Alexandra Feodorovna's life, her favorite perfume was "White Rose" from Atkinsons. The fragrance was created in London in 1910 and firmly established itself on the Empress's dressing table. She found it "pure and infinitely sweet." Several years ago, the Tsarskoye Selo Museum exhibited exquisite vintage bottles that once belonged to the last royal family. One of them was the property of Alexandra Feodorovna, and its half-decayed label can still read “Atkinsons White Rose”.
More than 100 years later, Atkinsons perfumers have recreated the favorite fragrance of Queen Alexandra based on the preserved archival records, giving it a new name - White Rose de Alix. This is how perfumers honored the memory of the one to whom this perfume is dedicated. Alix is the home name of Empress Alexandra Feodorovna (it is believed that this is a derivative of Alexander and Alice, but, strictly speaking, exactly like that - Alix - her native name is written in German).
Perfumer Julie Plush has worked on the reconstruction. The floral chypre scent begins with delicious notes of raspberry and lychee, revealing on the skin with a beautiful bouquet of white roses, peonies, freesia and jasmine. Saffron in the heart and labdanum, musk and vanilla in the base give a slightly spicy sound to the fragrance. And if we talk about our own impressions - yes, this is a completely royal aroma, which is easy to imagine on the empress somewhere in the scenery of the Livadia Palace, at the end of summer, or in the chambers of the Winter Palace.
An important detail: White Rose de Alix is a limited edition. In September, only 500 copies will go on sale, and all of them will be sold only in Russia.
Penhaligon's Elisabethan Rose
The Penhaligon Perfumery House became part of the history of the British Royal Court in the late 19th century, when the founder of the House, Henry Penhaligon, was appointed as the court barber and perfumer of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. Since then, the relationship between the British royal family and one of the oldest perfume houses in Europe has only grown stronger: only a few brands today hold the Royal Patent for the right to be called a supplier to Her Majesty's court or members of the royal family. And the Penhaligon perfume house has two of them - one from the Duke of Edinburgh, the other from the Prince of Wales. And, of course, the veil of this exclusivity and exclusivity is visible in all the details of Penhaligon perfumes, right down to vintage ribbons on the neck of bottles and seals on bottles stylized as sealing wax.
Elisabethan Rose was first created in 1984, in honor of Queen Elizabeth II's favorite flower, the red rose. In the original composition, the red garden rose literally performed solo, supported by red geraniums and aldehydes. The modern "Rose" came out more refined and, oddly enough, more expensive than its predecessor. This is not just a pink scent, but a real pink bouquet with pleasing durability and a delicate pink trail.
Despite the imposing pyramid, which contains hazelnut, almond, woody accords and even the beloved vetiver of modern perfumers, all these ingredients seem to be the suite that plays the Queen. And the queen here is an exquisite red rose. The fragrance, of course, to match the addressee - timeless, ageless, with dignity and an absolute sense of style and proportion.
Photo: Marie Claire, Getty Images, Press Services Archive
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