In Russia there is no single legislative document regulating the concept of "natural cosmetics". Therefore, what is meant by it each manufacturer decides for himself. Someone calls their product natural if it contains 95% natural ingredients, and someone calls it adding a couple of drops of shea butter or chamomile extract (while the composition may contain both synthetic and unsafe components ─ mineral oils, parabens, etc.) etc.).
To establish uniform standards for organic, natural and sustainable cosmetics, organizations have been established around the world to certify such cosmetics. Yana Vershigruk, an expert and creator of the Botavikos brand, a participant in BSP master classes and RPKA conferences on herbal cosmetics, tells what different certificates mean, how to get them and what is the difference between Eco, Natural, Organic, and Vegan cosmetics.
In the world
Eco-certificate is awarded to products, the production and use of which does not harm the environment.
Natural and Organic mean that natural or organic ingredients predominate in cosmetics (their percentage varies depending on the specific certificate). Also, such certification usually implies additional requirements for the safety of components for humans.
Vegan dictates an ethical attitude towards animals at all stages of the production of cosmetics: from the selection of ingredients to tests to confirm the properties of products.
In Russia
In our country, there are several so-called private standards for natural cosmetics: “Leaf of life. Organic”, BIO. RUS and“SDS Svyatobor”. These standards can be obtained within the framework of Voluntary Certification Systems, and their receipt is actually not even mandatory.
Also, in theory, any Russian brand can receive a certificate from any recognized world organization. The certification includes checking the raw materials and all stages of the production of cosmetics, as well as the percentage of organic, natural and synthetic substances in the composition. Many organizations also check the packaging of cosmetics and environmental compliance at all stages.
Who certifies
The most demanding quality standard for organic and natural cosmetics ─ Cosmos ─ takes into account everything, even how the product will decompose in nature. The European organizations BDIH, Cosmebio, Ecocert Greenlife, ICE and Soil Association have established a unified certification standard for natural cosmetics. This standard assigns the Cosmos Organic and Cosmos Natural labels to cosmetics. Both regulate the percentage of natural and organic components in the product.
The English Soil Association is one of the oldest and most influential in the world (operating since 1946), and it was she who first introduced the concept of "organic" into the cosmetic environment. The association also has two labels: Organic and Natural.
The international association for natural and organic cosmetics NaTrue distinguishes between three types of certification, depending on the percentage of natural and organic components, and assigns cosmetics from one to three stars.
NSF and USDA are American organic cosmetics certifications. Their labels on the packaging indicate that cosmetics contain at least 95% and 70% organic ingredients, respectively.
While most certifications are understood to require exclusion of animal testing, virtually no one prohibits the use of animal products in production. Regulators in this matter are special organizations that either completely prohibit the use of ingredients of animal origin in cosmetics (for example, the British Vegan Society), or mark the products that meet this requirement with a separate sign (certification from the American organization PETA).
Organic cosmetics in Russia
Photo: Getty Images, press archives
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