Unlike rose, vetiver is a controversial ingredient in perfumery. It is impossible to remain neutral to the aroma of this herbaceous plant of the family of cereals: you either like it or not, and this is forever. In the East, vetiver is cultivated for the essential oil extracted from its roots. But, since it has a pronounced “woody” sound, in the perfumery classification vetiver is referred to as woody notes, which sometimes creates confusion among inexperienced aromaholics who mistakenly call vetiver a tree.
The popularity of vetiver among perfumers is such that at least in micro doses it is present, probably in 80% of modern fragrances, adding a tart brutal nuance to the pyramid, reducing the degree of sweetness, making the aroma multidimensional. Below are a few new fragrances where vetiver plays an important violin.
Terre d'Hermès Eau Intense Vétiver, Hermes
Already from the name it is clear that vetiver is the main note here. This year's novelty is a flanker from the Terre family ("earth") of the Hermes perfume house. Perfumer Christine Nagel “disassembled” the pyramid of the ancestor, Terre d'Hermès, removed patchouli and geranium from it, reduced the presence of “motley” citrus fruits and enhanced the sound of the key ingredient of the line. The deliberately "simplified" pyramid gave the perfect combination of vetiver and bergamot notes. The audience of the fragrance is traditionally male. But nothing will prevent a woman from using it.
Aroma cost: 6,500 rubles. for 50 ml
L'Interdit, Givenchy
The very first fragrance with this name dates back to 1957, and was advertised by Audrey Hepburn herself. As it should be in that era, it was complex, with an impressive pyramid of floral and fruity notes on a very spicy base of musk, sandalwood, amber and vetiver. The trend towards lightening the pyramid is maintained in the modern scent. The fragrance begins with an accord of sweet liqueur cherry, which is replaced by white flowers traditionally used in oriental floral fragrances: tuberose, jasmine and orange blossom. Perhaps, vetiver is the only ingredient that slightly “extinguishes” this sweet bacchanalia: thanks to it, gradually opening up, the aroma loses its original sweetness. And, of course, this is 100% female perfume, even without options.
Aroma cost: 8 380 rubles. for 80 ml
Narciso Eau de Parfum Rouge, Narciso Rodriguez
The most "austere" flanker from the Narciso family received a beautiful powdery rose and discreet irises in the top notes (in fact, they added powder to the rose), which is quickly joined by the traditional musk of this line of aromas. There is more than enough of it here. The heaviness of the musk is offset by a quartet of vetiver, white cedar, sandalwood and tonka beans. Thanks to this combination in the pyramid, the red "cube" (as Narciso fans call the bottles of this line) seems more versatile and "wearable", unlike the previous flankers.
Aroma cost: 8 900 rubles. for 90 ml
The One Gray, Dolce & Gabbana
A flanker from the men's collection of The One, whose face is once again the courageous "King of the North" Kit Harington, could not do without vetiver. This ingredient is revealed here in the heart of the fragrance, intertwining with lavender and beautifully lays down on a base of notes of tobacco, gray wood and ambergris. One of the most laconic and courageous flankers of the family - no hint of sweetness, everything is very decorous and moderately brutal. In the best traditions of a truly masculine perfume.
Aroma cost: 7 570 rubles. for 100 ml
Photo: Getty Images, press archives
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