5 Scents Of Spring

We have not systematized our collection of "spring" fragrances. Why adjust to the definition that which by its very existence is intended to emphasize human individuality and uniqueness? All the perfumes we have noted are different. Despite the inevitable intersections and similarities of the individual components, they cannot be equated one size fits all. These are not just “fruity-floral-sensual-sunny” compositions in bottles decorated with flowers (the time of flowering - everything is logical). These are complex, thoughtful smells that have been heard, understood and chosen by women in different parts of the world.

We also did not pass by, each chose and fell in love with his own, but at the same time "paid tribute" to all the participants in the perfume hit parade. Seasonality in matters of "beauty" is increasingly becoming a thing of the past. In summer you can easily find oud and incense (and shudder, because in the heat it is still heavy artillery), and in winter you can sit in the office, like in a flower shop, or shiver from the frosty notes of absinthe. So, here are five of the brightest perfume events of spring that shouldn't be missed.

American History: 1957, Chanel, Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection

House Chanel confidently and efficiently plays on its territory, and, as we know, it is almost always the key to success. An inexhaustible vibrant heritage created and flawlessly built by the greatest Mademoiselle - an inexhaustible source of inspiration for designers, makeup artists and perfumers. What is pleasant is that each new story organically fits into modernity, gracefully combining strong classics with current trends. The 1957 fragrance is a clear example of all of the above. The numbers that became the title are, of course, not accidental. Gabrielle Chanel loved America, America loved Gabrielle Chanel (read also: “How Coco Chanel did not become Queen of England, and 14 more amazing facts about her”).

In 1957, she was recognized in the United States as the most influential fashion designer of the 20th century. In the same year, the largest Chanel boutique was opened in New York. The new chapter of the Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection is dedicated to this triumph. Although there is still a lot: 19 is Mademoiselle's birthday, 57 is the number of the house where the boutique was located. However, enough numerology, numbers rarely make us buy perfume. Let's talk about the scent itself. Chanel perfumer Olivier Polge, who lived and worked in the USA for several years, answered my question "What does America smell like?" answered: "Freshness, sensuality and purity."

In order to convey this "unity of opposites", he used white musk. And not just musk, but 8 different types of musk. Step by step, exploring new territory for him. Olivier Polge managed to create a surprisingly harmonious composition, which, as it seems to me, simply cannot be “liked”. There is nothing "not to like" there: so everything sounds okay and smooth. Besides, musk is one of the most "personal" ingredients in perfumery. It will always sound different on the skin. Everyone will hear something of their own in it - woody, spicy, honey and even floral notes. In fact, 1957 is the quintessence of Chanel style: natural, restrained and sophisticated.

Solo part: Solo Ella, Loewe

Everyone loves Solo Loewe for men. A laconic, uncompromising, businesslike and at the same time romantic scent has been one of the best-selling in the for him category for many years. I must say that this is a well-deserved success. And this success inspired the brand to create “something like that”, but this time for women. This is how a simple rectangular bottle, decorated with an orange lid, appeared, which, not only in appearance, but also in content, proclaims the dualism of any bright personality.

The scent is addressed to "free, daring, contradictory and self-confident" girls. But this does not say much, because, for example, I find it difficult to remember the spirits addressed to the "languid, enslaved, humiliated and insulted." But the composition and the very approach to it really deserve attention. In essence, this is a small professional revolution.

Firstly, this eau de parfum contains 20% natural essential oils, which is a unique phenomenon in itself. Secondly, in contrast to the traditional olfactory pyramids, a linear structure is observed here: opposite chords are connected to each other in such a way that each involved note sounds perfect and recognizable (which is always nice). More specifically, a floral accord of sambac jasmine and orange blossom is opposed to moist green tea, while a dry woody accord of vanilla, amber and cedar is paired with a fruity "smoothie" of green apple, peach and bitter orange. In a word, it's definitely worth listening to, and maybe even taking it home.

Allegory game: AquAllegoria, Guerlain

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Three new fragrances appeared in the AquAllegori collection at once - FlorCherrysia, Coconut Fizz and Ginger Piccante. All of them fit perfectly into the concept of "freshness of nature and other pastoral joys". FlorCherrysi resembles a postcard from Japan with all the necessary attributes of a sakura blossom - pink color and a bright sweet aroma, conveyed through notes of cherry blossoms, violets and white musk. Coconut Fizz does what the things of coconut are supposed to do - takes you to a distant sandy beach in the Indian Ocean, buries yourself in white sand and refreshes with turquoise splashes.

In this case, everything is not as sweet as it could be … Guerlain's coconut is water with a salty freshness, flavored with notes of freesia and tonka bean. Ginger Piccante plays on the Asian theme in French, balancing on a fine line between candied ginger and rose. As you can see, there is a choice. But what is especially interesting for us is the new direction in which one of the oldest perfume houses is going to develop. Together with the spring novelties, he begins to actively lobby for the topic of mixing aromas. Since each AquAllegori composition is always built around one specific component, the scope for imagination is practically unlimited.

Pure art: Rose Kabuki and Holy Peony, Maison Christian Dior collection

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You can find a Maison Christian Dior perfume collection (and a home collection) only in special perfume boutiques. This pathos is not accidental: each fragrance is positioned as a work of art, which is revealed only in a special atmosphere, and most importantly - with the right mood. Nothing fussy. Only full immersion in the world of high perfumery.

We are interested in the two latest novelties from this collection, which are perfect for a spring "wardrobe". Rose Kabuki scent sounds subtle and delicate, mesmerizing like meditation. It is akin to spiritual practice, it opens the third eye, which allows you to move away from the hustle and bustle and enjoy beauty in a state of complete harmony with the world. The duet of the absolute and essence of Damascus Rose, wrapped in musk, sounds soft, very Japanese, without disturbing someone else's living space. This is perhaps the most abstract rose of the entire Dior collection.

Another spring premiere from the same noble collection is Holy Peony. Dior perfumer François Demachy created it inspired by the flowers seen in the botanical garden of Isola Madre Island on Lake Maggiore, as well as by the scarlet peonies with large velvety petals that grow in the Chinese province of Yunnian. It is interesting that the peony practically does not smell in reality, so it is quite a difficult task to recreate its aroma. In this case, François Demachy added a bright fruity accord with a strawberry-raspberry filling to the notes of peony and rose. It turned out to be dynamic, cheerful and very “girlish”.

Everyone in the garden: collection The Alchemist's Garden, Gucci

Before we could look back, Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele changed the world. The men changed into pink coats, while the women humiliated their fingers with lion snouts and giant bees. Humanity was confused before the choice of where, in fact, to attribute itself - to the flora or fauna. But Alessandro Michele is not the kind of person to stop there. Now he just took and sent everyone to the garden, or rather to the alchemical laboratory, where old recipes and rare ingredients are collected to obtain (no, not the philosopher's stone) unique and very, very personal aromas.

In this case, "very, very personal" is not a sign of exaltation, but a statement of fact. Seven eau de parfum, four oils, three scented water options - all of which can be mixed in an infinite number of options. Oils and scented water create a trail, and eau de parfum (oud, amber, violet, iris, mimosa, rose and wood) sets the tone for the whole ensemble or sounds on its own. The compositions were naturally composed by a professional - genius perfumer Alberto Morillas. In his work, he was guided by the history of smells and did everything as the old masters once did: he studied the details and nuances, added a little mysticism to each bottle.

What are the names of perfumes alone - "The Voice of the Snake", "The Eyes of the Tiger", "Tears of the Iris", "Frosty Spring" … As they say, you don't even need to smell, everything is clear! And just a few words about design (what is Gucci without design). The bottles were developed under the influence of vessels, intricate pharmaceutical jars and the first perfume bottles stored on wooden shelves of ancient pharmacies (read also: "The 5 most" crazy "perfume bottles"). All this is hidden in painted bags and rests in weighty boxes. To this it is difficult to add anything else. Watch and enjoy.

Photo: Getty Images, press archives