The Patient Is Rather Alive: 10 New Oud Fragrances

Yes, oud definitely had its moment in perfumery - bright, noticeable, long and, as a result, slightly tired of everyone. Once a mysterious note from the East, once leaving the sacred territory, did not leave anyone indifferent. This is how a protracted period began for the last few years, which survived all stages from lust and oblivion, and involved absolutely all participants in this crazy action in the process. Perfumers who wanted to work with oud: first out of curiosity, then out of principle. Buyers - because they didn't talk about fantastic oud except from the iron. And, finally, the tycoons of the perfumery industry - having found a gold mine, they had to snatch their piece here and now - since the entire international beauty press, as if by agreement, was just asserting about wood that had rotted for good purposes. And a properly excited consumer is known toready for a lot.

Agarwood, or rather its wood, must really get sick in order for the pathological process to start rotting from the inside - only in this case, many years later, the raw material will acquire that necessary smell with the effect of general madness. It's funny that oud managed to make a way from a quite standard, albeit very expensive, frequenter of Arab markets through selective perfumery "not for everyone" into fragrances that at some point could already be found in beauty retail, even of the most widespread consumption. There was so much luck that my head began to ache literally and figuratively. All unprepared people immediately wanted to go out into the fresh air and take a break from all this mess. Increasingly, statements began to appear about the imminent decline of the once popular component. The truth is, the statements remained private,unobvious and somewhat contrived.

Cartier exclusive perfumer Matilda Laurent says: “How can you stop drinking water or eating, say, potatoes? Likewise, oud - it cannot disappear anywhere. Yes, he started loudly. Any other component could envy the excitement around him. And, despite its eccentricity, he hooked. Now he is still with us, he is also of interest to perfumers and brands. It just seems to me that now, not forgetting about its oriental origin, the oud is moving somewhere in a new, sensual and lighter side."

Perfumer Olivier Cresp also believes that oud is eternal: “This component is unique - it could please everyone. It is possible that the wild success played a cruel joke on him, because sometimes supply and demand just get out of control. Therefore, the oud goes back to where it belongs - to niche perfumery, where it will be left alone, the brand of a cash cow will be removed and let to shine with new unknown facets”.

Photo: Getty Images, press archives