Man in the house
Even those who loyally and selflessly love infinitely feminine long dresses (the choice is huge - from Valentino to Russian Alexander Terekhov, lRusse, Vilshenko) and wear princesses of Axenoff Jewelery jewelry to them, often prefer overtly masculine fragrances. This is not a local trend - it is followed by advanced girls around the world. “I don't like gentle girlish compositions at all. And I just can't stand the flower perfume, - says the famous jeweler Aurelia Biedermann. - As far back as I can remember, my father always wore Vetiver, Carven. Now his passion has passed to me. Sometimes I cheat on him with the brutal Eau d'Orange Verte, Hermes, Acqudi Parm and Bonpoint. " In response, perfumer Sophia Groisman explains: “Men's fragrances are usually clean and fresh, while women's fragrances are heavy and sweet. And while the former boldly experiment with sexy notes,adding tobacco, smoke and spices. " Today, the most popular players on two fronts are Terre d'Hermes, Hermes; Tobacco Vanille, Tom Ford; Palissandre d'Or, Aedes de Venustas; Sycomor, Les Exclusifs de Chanel; Gaiac Mystique, Givenchy. They are not advertised as unisex, the decision was spontaneously made by the consumers themselves. By the way, loving men's fragrances is half the battle, you still need to be able to wear them correctly. “A white shirt jeans and heels are perfect for the composition“for him,”says Givenchy olfactologist Françoise Donsch. "But with a suit and with any woolen fabric, strong notes of leather, wood, tobacco become too heavy and straightforward." By the way, you can look for your new fragrance "with a masculine character" in the just released Ralph Laurent Collection,with the help of which the designer shared his impressions of travels and favorite places (of course, with the participation of perfumers - Carlos Benaim, Calisa Becker and Harry Fremont).
Terre d'Hermes, Hermes
Not all perfumers are delighted with the question of how to mix fragrances correctly. It seems to them that they have already put everything they need in one bottle, and your co-creation looks like disrespect for their art. However, there are brands that have made layering of perfume notes on top of each other with their philosophy and corporate style. Sample of English taste Jo Malone recommends using two or even three compositions at the same time. Orris & Sandalwood and Black Cedarwood & Juniper are worth noting of the brand's latest novelties. Demeter's compact bottles are literally made for “doubles”. Etro recommends mixing their Ambr and Paisley scents, while Maison Francis Kurkdjian recommends wearing AquUniversalis and Absolue Pour le Matin together. A very interesting story has also appeared in Russia. A very young Natalia Onufrieva,graduated from the Grasse Institute of Parfumery, created the Opera & Studio individual fragrance laboratory and launched the Bar by Oper & Studio project. Those who want to create their own deeply personal scent come to her studio and plunge into the world of desires or memories, while under the guidance of Natalia they listen to various perfume bases and accords. At the exit, a box is in the hands, divided into six cells, in which the selected chords are stored, and an instruction with the rules for combining them with each other. All this can and should be mixed directly on yourself, depending on your mood or occasion. From the hot news on this topic, one cannot but mention the "leather" collection LCollection des Cuirs from Elie Saab. It plays up the classic leather theme in four variations: Cuir Ylang, Cuir Bourbon, Cuir Patchouli and Cuir Absolue. Although all these compositions are original and completely self-contained, they can be combined with mono-fragrances from the high-end perfumery line LCollection des Essense, Elie Saab.
The general rule of thumb for blending perfumes is to layer two simple fragrances of a small number of notes on top of each other, or to add a fragrance built around one dominant note to a complex composition that already has that note in the olfactive pyramid.
LCollection des Essense, Elie Saab.
Just a drop
Oils used to be associated with street vendors and antique shops, but the gummy elixirs have gradually lost their grunge reputation. More concentrated and revealing from the warmth of the skin, they have become a favorite form of fragrances for perfumer Francis Kurkdjian. “By using oils instead of sprays, I can create a longer plume,” he says. Take, for example, the woody-citrus Elixir AquUniversalis Forte in a roll. It contains about 20% more fragrance than eau de toilette and lasts much longer on the skin.” In the East, women apply several saturated amber drops to their skin right from the morning and walk around, wrapped in a viscous mist of flowers and spices. Today the "oil" fever has swept the entire perfumery world. It is beautiful, thoroughbred, exciting and very sexy. Certainlyyou should pay attention to the concentrated oils of rose, oud, musk and amber Les Elixires Precieux, Dior, which in a new way reveal the fragrances of the Privee Christian Dior niche collection. In the same line of "delights" are four oils from Carolin Herrera, which allow you to create an infinite number of aroma variations within the Confidential collection, Carolin Herrera.
But you should not go to extremes. Oils sound best in the evening in combination with silk or, conversely, heavy velvet and massive oriental jewelry. Business style and casual go well with them, but glamor and richly decorated luxury are good.
Privee Christian Dior collection
What's the smell of a perfume that doesn't smell like anything? (And who will wear it?) Surprisingly, there is a huge demand for such fragrances. “Almost 70% of women's perfumes are floral. And what about the other 30%? Fresh or Sweet? - says perfumer Dominique Ropillon. - Not certainly in that way. There are niche compositions that blend so well with the skin that they can be called “anti-perfume”. " These are fragrances with notes reminiscent of expensive laundry, such as weightless L'Eau, Serge Lutens, or Blanche, Byredo - they are as transparent as their names. Due to the fact that this part of the perfumery world attracts esotericists, they are called as something that does not exist in nature - Not Perfume, Juliette Has Gun, or Molecule 01, Escentric Molecules. Basically, they are very easy to wear,but most often the background for phantom fragrances is an individual style, perfected to the smallest detail, with memorable details and distinctive makeup. If a fashionable style is still being formed, and perfume tastes are leaning towards simplicity, then perhaps it is worth paying attention to compositions built around one or two notes. Remember how everyone suddenly fell in love with oud melodies? Today citrus, juniper, pine needles and sea breeze have been added to them.
Photo: Press Services Archives, Getty Images
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