What Should Be A Quality Sunscreen?

“Today on the Internet you can find a lot of different information about sunscreens, which is very easy to get confused, and therefore I would like to get a clear answer to a number of important questions. Does sunscreen have to be waterproof, and why do many people criticize chemical filters? Are there really dangerous ones among them? What summer treatment would you recommend for very dry skin?"

Reader marieclaire.ru, 34

Expert's answer:

We will answer all your questions in order. So, should a sunscreen be waterproof? Of course. The more water-resistant the sunscreen is, the more likely it is that the skin will not be damaged by UV radiation. This is why the developers put a huge amount of money and effort into finding the specific ingredients that ensure the persistence of Sanskrins.

To date, the name water-resistant has been adopted to designate such Sanskrins, and among them there are two groups - WR 40, or simply water resistant (retaining efficiency for up to 40 minutes in water), and WR80, or water resistant (retaining efficiency for up to 80 minutes in water). In order to create the effect of water resistance, various waxes, oils and silicones are usually used, in particular dimethicone. In addition, it is important to ensure reliable adhesion, "adhesion" of Sanskrin to the skin, for which manufacturers also select special ingredients. It is important that the resulting product does not become too greasy, sticky or heavy in texture.

Some manufacturers use special coatings for filtering mineral particles that are acid-resistant. Thanks to them, acidic sweat does not wash off the Sanskrin. However, the terms "waterproof" or "sweat proof" (resistant to water or sweat) are not allowed.

Today there are a lot of such funds on the market. The first positions in the ratings are taken by sunscreens Shiseido Sport, Neutrogena, Sunblocz, Australian Blue Lizard, Thinkbaby, EltMD, Sun Bum and some others.

Why do many people scold chemical filters, and are there really dangerous ones among them? In fact, for some time now it has become customary to use a different terminology: filters, which we previously called chemical, are now usually defined as organic, and physical - as inorganic.

Inorganic filters are based on minerals. The most common among these are zinc and titanium. Mineral particles absorb energy from sunlight and partially reflect it. Organic - various chemical compounds that can absorb solar energy. The difference between them is that mineral particles, absorbing energy, heat up, but do not change, and organic compounds often change their structure when heated, as a result of which a new "overheated" compound can become dangerous for skin cells.

This problem caught the attention of safety experts not long ago, but since then, chemists have made great strides in developing more stable molecules that are capable of not changing structure for at least two hours in the open sun. However, some filters or their combinations can cause skin irritation reactions and even provoke the development of pigmentation disorders in people with sensitive skin, therefore experts advise to avoid them.

Octocrylene + Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone or PArsol) is considered one of the worst combinations. In addition, with high skin sensitivity, it is better to avoid products with Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone in the USA), Benzophenone-4, 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor and the same Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, if they are indicated in the first lines on the label. But we emphasize once again that organic filters allow you to create very comfortable and effective formulas, and for a sunscreen, this is a very important quality.

If the cream is visible on the skin, creates a feeling of heaviness, is too shiny (this often happens with products based on inorganic filters), then people apply them insufficiently or simply avoid using them. So you shouldn't be afraid of sunscreens with organic filters, but at the same time, experts recommend trying new products on a small area of the skin before moving on to using them.

When it comes to summer care for very dry skin, it is important to focus on moisturizing and maintaining the skin's barrier properties. The healthier and healthier your dermis is, the easier it is to protect it from the sun.

The first thing to do is to choose the most gentle and gentle cleanser, preferably one that supports the health of the skin microbiome and contains prebiotics or probiotics.

The second is to use daily moisturizers to help retain moisture in the upper layers of the skin. These can be water-soluble concentrates or serums containing hyaluronic acid, carrageenan, chondroitin, aloe juice extract, glycerin, lactobionic acid, glucuronic acid, or gluconolactone.

Thermal water may also be suitable for this purpose and can be sprayed generously on the face after washing. In order for Sanskrin to be well distributed over the skin and to act as efficiently as possible, it is important to make the skin as smooth as possible. To do this, use a few drops of intensive oil based products, gels and mild emulsions based on hyaluronic acid and glycerin.

It is difficult and inconvenient to apply a day cream under the sunscreen, but in the evening after thorough cleansing of the skin, it is recommended to use not only intensive moisturizers, but also nourishing creams. Owners of dry skin should also not skimp on moisturizing masks - if you can find time for this ritual 2-3 times a week, be sure to do it.