"Beauty shots" are a proven, but not the only way to remove wrinkles from the face. Cosmetics with special ingredients - muscle relaxants, which have an effect similar to Botox, gradually smoothing the skin - are also capable of this. How such products work, what you need to know before using them and whether they can really replace painful injections - this and many other things were told to us by an expert-cosmetologist "Vallex M" Irina Babakhova.
What are muscle relaxants, and to whom are they indicated?
Mio means muscle and relax means relaxation. Accordingly, muscle relaxants are substances that relax the muscles of the face by blocking the transmission of nerve impulses. In the composition of cosmetics, this function is performed by special peptides (short protein chains). They work on the principle of a key that "locks" the impulse in the nerve ending, not allowing it to be released. The muscle, not receiving this impulse, stops actively contracting. Micro-clamps in muscle fibers gradually relax, which provides an external effect in the form of smoothing of facial wrinkles.
However, it is important to note that cosmetics with muscle relaxants can deal exclusively with superficial dynamic wrinkles, that is, those that form when we show emotions - frown, smile, laugh. Such wrinkles appear in the areas with the most active facial expressions: around the eyes, on the forehead, in the glabellar space and in the area of the nasolabial triangle. Deep static wrinkles that develop with age due to decreased collagen production and gravitational ptosis are not affected by muscle relaxants.
The end result from the use of muscle relaxants also strongly depends on the skin type. They work best on thin, but on dense, with a pronounced fat layer, the effect may be barely noticeable. The same applies to the skin, on which expression lines are more like creases and are visible even when the face is calm and relaxed. In this case, experts recommend that you first carry out the correction using injection techniques, and then maintain the result with the help of muscle relaxants.
Means with muscle relaxants: which ones to choose?
There are two main types of cosmetics with muscle relaxants: local agents, which must be rubbed pointwise into the problem area, and creams / serums, which can be applied to the entire face and neck. Most experts advise choosing products of the first type, since they contain a higher concentration of muscle relaxant peptides, and the result from their use is always more pronounced. However, you will have to wait at least a month for visible changes, since enough peptides must accumulate in the wrinkled area for the muscle to relax.
If you want to get a faster effect, look for products that, in addition to muscle relaxants, contain other active ingredients that enhance their effect.
What do you need to know before using?
Before you start using cosmetics with muscle relaxants, you need to assess the condition of your skin. The fact is that such products can slightly dry the skin, creating a tightening film on the surface. If the skin is dehydrated, peeling and reddened, then drugs with muscle relaxants can aggravate these problems. In addition, you will feel discomfort when applying (see also: “Sensitive skin: which components of creams can cause irritation”).
Before dealing with aesthetic imperfections, you need to take care of skin health. If you see that the skin is weakened, irritation and inflammation often appear on it, these are signs that its protective barrier has been broken. First, "fix" it by adding moisturizing and regenerating serums to your care, and then select a product to fight wrinkles.
Secondly, it must be borne in mind that peptides are generally a rather capricious ingredient, and especially muscle relaxant peptides. They are very sensitive to the pH level of the skin: it should be slightly acidic or neutral (4 to 7). Therefore, peptides are not recommended to be used simultaneously with agents that contain AHA acids. The fact is that during their use, the acidity of the epidermis changes dramatically and peptide bonds are destroyed, without having time to exert any effect on the skin. The same goes for products with retinoids (see also: "Chemistry of beauty: 9 acids you need to know").
Means with muscle relaxants cannot be used constantly - only in courses. If you do not take a break in their use, this can lead to disruption of normal microcirculation and the processes of cellular nutrition of tissues, which ultimately will significantly worsen the general condition of the skin. A break should be taken after about 2-3 months of use, when the maximum result is achieved. After cancellation, the effect will last from several months to six months. How long depends on age, facial expressions and other individual characteristics of the body
Can cosmetics with muscle relaxants replace beauty injections?
No muscle relaxant remedy, even the best one, can compare with injection techniques. The effectiveness of the latter is much higher, and it is undeniable. Botulinum neuroprotein, which is used for beauty injections, causes paralysis of the active muscle in the area where wrinkles need to be removed. With the help of muscle relaxants, it is impossible to achieve a total shutdown of the muscles from work. They are able to affect only the skin, softening and relaxing it where the muscle frame is strained to the maximum. Use muscle relaxant products in parallel with injections to enhance and prolong the result of the procedure. They are also indicated for those who have developed resistance to "botox" or who should not be injected due to health problems.
About the author:
Irina Babakhova
Photo: Getty Images
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